How to Choose the Best Blade for Every Type of Cut

The right blade makes all the difference. Using the correct blade ensures cleaner cuts, improves safety, and extends tool life. Here's what you need to know upfront:

• For wood: Use blades with large teeth for rip cuts (16–40 teeth) or finer teeth for crosscuts (40–80 teeth).
• For metal: Opt for smaller, closely spaced teeth made from high-speed steel or carbide.
• For composites: Choose carbide-tipped blades for wood-heavy composites; diamond blades for plastic-heavy materials.
• Key factors: Match tooth count (TPI), blade thickness (kerf), and hook angle to your material and saw type.
• Blade care: Replace dull or damaged blades and store them safely to prevent wear.

Quick Comparison Table

Start with the right blade to save time, improve results, and stay safe. Let’s dive into the details.

Understanding Saw Blades

Blade Types and Material Compatibility

Choosing the right blade for the material you're working with is key to achieving clean, precise cuts. Whether you're cutting wood, metal, or composite materials, the blade's design and compatibility with the material can make or break your project. It's not just about the material, though - selecting the correct blade size, based on UK metric standards, is equally important.

Blades for Wood, Metal, and Composites

Wood cutting blades are designed with large, widely spaced teeth to ensure fast and efficient cuts. The tooth geometry varies depending on the type of cut: rip cuts (along the grain) use blades with 16–40 teeth for speed, while crosscut blades, ideal for cutting against the grain, have 40–80 teeth for smoother, cleaner edges.

"Blades for metal have smaller shorter teeth and they don't stagger, for wood they are longer teeth, spaced further apart." - Josh Amaphone

Metal cutting blades feature smaller, closely spaced teeth to gradually shave away metal. These blades are typically made from high-speed steel or carbides that can withstand the heat generated during cutting. For harder metals, abrasive blades are often the go-to option.

Composite material blades require a more tailored approach due to the varied nature of these materials. Using the right blade not only improves the quality of the cut but also extends the life of your tools. For composites with a high wood content, carbide-tipped blades are recommended, while diamond blades are better suited for composites with a high plastic content.

Blades for composites often feature a triple chip grind (TCG) tooth design, which alternates between flat-top and angled teeth. This configuration helps minimise chipping on laminate surfaces, ensuring clean cuts without damaging the material.

For wood, Tungsten Carbide Tipped (TCT) blades are a reliable choice, while Polycrystalline Diamond (PCD) tipped blades excel at cutting abrasive materials like laminates, chipboard, and composites. PCD-tipped blades are especially durable, lasting up to 60 times longer than standard carbide-tipped options.

"The geometry of the teeth and the material they're made from. It all boils down to the kind of work each tooth has to do." - Dustin Bass

Metric Sizing Standards in the UK

Blade performance isn't just about tooth design - size matters too. In the UK, blade sizes are measured in millimetres, with popular diameters including 165mm, 184mm, 210mm, and 250mm. The 210mm blade is a favourite for general-purpose tasks, offering a balance between cutting depth and ease of handling.

When selecting a blade, consider both the diameter and the arbor hole (the central hole that fits onto your saw's spindle). Common arbor sizes in the UK include 16mm, 20mm, and 30mm. If the blade's arbor hole doesn't match your saw, reducing rings can help adapt the blade to fit.

Another important factor is kerf width - the thickness of the blade. Standard kerf blades, measuring around 2.4mm, are durable and ideal for heavy-duty tasks and thicker materials. Thin kerf blades, on the other hand, are about 1.5mm thick, requiring less power and producing less waste. These are especially useful for cordless tools and precision work.

For a wide selection of blades, check out our Saw Blades collection. Need a compatible saw? Explore our Power Tools section for the perfect match to your blade choice.

Key Features to Consider When Choosing a Blade

When selecting a blade, there’s more to think about than just material compatibility. Several key characteristics directly impact performance, helping you achieve the best results for your specific cutting tasks.

Tooth Count and Configuration

The number of teeth per inch (TPI) plays a big role in determining both cutting speed and the smoothness of the finish. As Norton Abrasives puts it:

"Generally, the higher the amount of saw blade teeth, the better the quality of cut and finishing. If you're looking for a faster and rougher cut, then a blade with fewer teeth will be more suitable."

Blades with higher TPI (24–80 teeth) produce smoother, cleaner finishes but cut more slowly. These are great for crosscuts in hardwood, plywood, and other delicate materials where precision matters. On the other hand, lower TPI blades (10–24 teeth) cut faster and are more aggressive, making them ideal for ripping thick timber or rough construction work.

The material you’re cutting also influences the optimal TPI. For softwoods, aim for 3–6 teeth engaging the material, while harder materials and metals typically need 6–24 teeth in contact.

Tooth geometry is equally important. For instance, Alternate Top Bevel (ATB) teeth are designed to slice wood fibres cleanly, making them perfect for crosscuts. Triple Chip Grind (TCG) teeth excel at cutting through laminates and composites without chipping, while Flat Top Grind (FTG) teeth are best for aggressive ripping along the grain.

Next, let’s look at how blade thickness and kerf influence cutting precision and efficiency.

Blade Thickness and Kerf

While tooth configuration determines how a blade cuts, its thickness and kerf affect precision and material waste. The kerf is the width of material removed during cutting, and it has a direct impact on both accuracy and efficiency.

Thin kerf blades (0.090–0.125 inches/2.3–3.2 mm) remove less material, resulting in reduced waste and lower power demands. These are ideal for cordless tools and precision tasks. In contrast, full kerf blades (approximately 0.125 inches/3.2 mm or more) are thicker, providing greater stability for heavy-duty applications. Their added thickness minimises blade deflection, making them better suited for demanding tasks that require durability and speed.

Your choice between thin and full kerf blades should depend on the power of your saw and the level of precision your project requires.

Hook Angle and Cutting Speed

The hook angle - the forward or backward tilt of the blade teeth - has a major impact on cutting performance and safety. It determines how aggressively the blade interacts with the material, influencing both speed and control.

Positive hook angles (5–22°) allow for faster, more aggressive cuts by pulling the material towards the blade. Angles between 5–15° are ideal for general-purpose cutting, while steeper angles (18–22°) excel at ripping softwoods and handling thicker materials. However, these angles can cause tear-out and require more careful handling.

Negative hook angles (–5 to –7°) are better for precision and safety. They prevent the blade from self-feeding, making them ideal for radial arm saws and sliding compound mitre saws. These angles also reduce chipping, which is especially useful when working with delicate materials. For metal cutting, negative hook angles are highly recommended to maintain control and avoid dangerous blade engagement.

For all your cutting needs, explore our Hand Tools collection. You’ll also find a variety of options in our Saw Blades section, along with Workshop Accessories to help with storage and maintenance.

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Specialist Blades for Specific Applications

When it comes to tackling tough materials and demanding tasks, specialist blades are the go-to choice. These blades are purpose-built to handle specific materials, ensuring cleaner cuts and longer tool life. By incorporating advanced materials and innovative designs, they outperform standard blades in challenging scenarios.

Blades for Non-Ferrous Metals

Cutting non-ferrous metals like aluminium, brass, and copper requires a different approach than cutting steel. Standard blades often get clogged with metal shavings, reducing efficiency. That’s why tungsten carbide tipped (TCT) blades are the preferred choice. With carbide tips that are nearly as hard as diamond, these blades deliver exceptional durability and cutting precision.

For aluminium, modified Alternate Top Bevel (ATB) blades provide fast, burr-free cuts, while a Triple Chip Grind (TCG) design prevents the material from sticking to the blade teeth. Tests consistently show that high-quality aluminium blades last longer and perform better.

To choose the right TCT blade for non-ferrous metals, pay attention to the tooth count:

• Finer-toothed blades (80–100 teeth): Ideal for thinner metals, offering smoother cuts.
• Coarser-toothed blades (54–60 teeth): Better suited for thicker materials, cutting efficiently.

Safety is crucial when cutting metals. Always check the blade’s maximum RPM rating and consider using a saw blade lubricant to manage heat build-up during cutting.

Prices for quality TCT aluminium blades range from £15 to £130, depending on the diameter and tooth count. While the initial investment may be higher, purpose-built blades save money in the long run by lasting longer and delivering superior results. For a variety of options, browse our Saw Blades.

Specialist blades are also essential for cutting through tough materials like tiles and masonry.

Tile and Masonry Blades

When working with ceramic tiles, porcelain, brick, or concrete, standard blades simply won’t cut it - literally. These hard, abrasive materials require diamond blades, which grind through surfaces rather than slicing. Their design focuses on cooling and debris removal to ensure efficiency and longevity.

Here are the main types of diamond blades and their applications:

• Continuous Rim Blades: With a smooth, uninterrupted edge, these blades provide a chip-free finish, making them perfect for delicate materials like ceramic tiles and porcelain. However, they require wet cutting to cool the blade and remove debris, resulting in slower but more precise cuts.
• Segmented Blades: Recognisable by their notched edges, these blades excel at dry cutting concrete and brick. They allow for better airflow and cooling, making them faster but less precise - ideal for rougher jobs.
• Turbo Blades: Combining features of both designs, turbo blades have small serrations along a continuous rim. This allows for aggressive yet smooth cutting, suitable for both wet and dry conditions.

Choosing the right blade depends on your project. For intricate work on high-end tiles where precision is key, continuous rim blades are worth the extra time for wet cutting. On the other hand, if you’re working on construction tasks like cutting concrete or brick, segmented blades prioritise speed and efficiency.

Some manufacturers even offer diamond blades with low-noise steel cores, a thoughtful feature for residential projects or enclosed workshops.

For more insights and advice on selecting the perfect cutting tools, visit our Tips & Tricks section.

Maintenance and Safety Tips for Blades

Keeping your cutting blades in top shape isn’t just about performance - it’s also about safety. Even the best blades can wear down over time, leading to uneven cuts, vibrations, and potential hazards if not properly maintained.

When to Replace a Blade

Knowing when to replace your blade is essential for maintaining smooth cuts and a safe working environment. A worn or damaged blade doesn’t just produce poor results - it can also pose serious risks.

Look for visual signs of wear, such as missing or broken teeth, rounded or chipped carbide tips, or rust and corrosion on the blade. However, performance issues often appear before visible damage does.

Pay attention to how your blade performs. If you notice slower cutting speeds, burn marks on the material, or excessive vibration paired with screeching sounds, it’s likely time to replace or service the blade. These signs indicate the blade is dull or damaged.

For diamond blades, lifespan can range from 12 to 120 hours of continuous use, depending on the material and how well the blade is maintained. Unlike traditional blades, diamond blades lose efficiency as their diamond particles wear down or become glazed. On the other hand, carbide-tipped blades can often be sharpened a few times, but if sharpening no longer improves performance, replacing the blade is usually more economical.

If you’re ready to upgrade or replace your blade, check out our Saw Blades collection for high-quality options.

Once you’ve replaced your blade, proper storage is essential to protect your investment.

Storing Blades Safely

How you store your blades can make a big difference in their lifespan and safety. Improper storage can lead to dulling, damage, or even accidents in your workshop.

Start by cleaning each blade thoroughly before storage. Use a stiff-bristled brush or cloth with a water-based cleaner or mild detergent to remove dirt and debris. For woodworking blades with resin or pitch buildup, apply a suitable solvent to clean the surface. If you spot rust, tackle it immediately with a wire brush or steel wool. After cleaning, dry the blades completely and add a thin coat of food-safe mineral oil to protect against humidity.

Keep blades separated to avoid damage. Storing blades where they touch each other or hard surfaces can cause chipping and dulling. Use organisers, racks, or individual trays to keep them safe. Options like wall-mounted magnetic strips make blades easy to access while keeping them spaced apart, or you can repurpose knife blocks with individual slots for compact storage. For drawer storage, inserts with dividers or individual slots work well to prevent contact between blades.

Always store blades in a dry area to prevent rust. If your workshop has high humidity, consider adding desiccant packets to storage containers or applying a light protective oil. Also, keep separate cleaning tools for different blade types to avoid cross-contamination with wood dust or metal particles.

Safety is crucial. Store blades securely, out of children’s reach, and in a way that allows you to grab one without handling multiple blades at once.

Conclusion: Getting the Best Performance with the Right Blade

Selecting the right blade is essential for achieving precision, efficiency, and safety in your cutting tasks. As we've discussed, the blade you use can greatly influence the quality of your work and the lifespan of your equipment. The basics remain straightforward: the blade's tooth count, thickness, and hook angle must align with the material and cutting speed to deliver the best results.

Using a blade that's not suited to the task can lead to issues like overheating, kickback, and poor-quality cuts. On the other hand, a well-matched blade not only ensures smoother, cleaner cuts but also lasts longer, reducing the need for frequent replacements. Adjusting your cutting speed to match the blade's recommended RPM for the material you're working with prevents overheating and minimises burring, keeping your projects on track.

Whether you're working with wood, metal, masonry, or composites, the right blade can completely change your cutting experience. Each blade is designed to perform at its best with specific materials, making it crucial to choose wisely.

At Neasden Hardware, we understand that every cutting job is unique. That's why our range of trade-quality blades is carefully selected to meet the needs of professionals, workshop specialists, and DIY enthusiasts alike. From circular saw blades to mitre saw options and specialist tools, you'll find the precision-engineered blade that's right for your project. Check out our Saw Blades collection for more options and expert guidance.

FAQs

What’s the difference between thin kerf and full kerf saw blades, and when should you use each one?

When it comes to blade thickness, thin kerf blades measure around 3mm, while full kerf blades are closer to 4mm. The difference might seem small, but it significantly impacts performance and material usage.

Thin kerf blades are a great option for lower-powered saws or when you want to reduce waste. Because they remove less material with each cut, they require less power and generate less sawdust. This makes them ideal for precision work or smaller woodworking projects where accuracy and efficiency are key.

On the flip side, full kerf blades are built for high-powered saws (typically over 3 horsepower) and are designed to handle heavier tasks. These blades deliver smoother, more consistent cuts and are sturdier, making them less prone to bending or deflecting. They're especially suited for cutting hardwoods or working with tougher materials.

In summary, thin kerf blades excel at detailed, lighter work, while full kerf blades are the go-to for demanding jobs that require power and durability.

How can I choose the right hook angle for the material I’m cutting?

When choosing the right hook angle, it’s all about the material you’re cutting and the finish you’re aiming for:

• For soft materials like wood, a positive hook angle (between 5° and 20°) works best. This angle helps guide the material into the blade, making cuts faster and more efficient.
• For harder materials such as metal or laminate, a lower or negative hook angle (ranging from 0° to -10°) is more suitable. It provides smoother cuts and minimises the chance of chipping.

Selecting the correct hook angle ensures your cuts are both precise and tailored to the material at hand.

What are the best ways to maintain and store saw blades to extend their lifespan?

To keep your saw blades in excellent working order and extend their lifespan, regular care is essential. Start by cleaning your blades after each use. This removes resin, dust, and debris that can accumulate and affect performance. Use a soft brush along with a cleaning solution made specifically for saw blades. During operation, applying a lubricant or coolant can help minimise heat and friction, which in turn helps maintain the blade's sharpness.

When it comes to storage, always place your blades in a secure, dry spot to avoid rust and corrosion. Blade storage racks or protective cases are great options to prevent damage to the teeth. For bandsaw blades, coiling and securing them properly ensures they retain their shape and stay in good condition. These straightforward maintenance practices not only prolong the life of your blades but also keep them performing safely and efficiently.

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